AHA for closed comedones: what to know

Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic or lactic acid exfoliate mainly at the skin surface. They can smooth rough texture and help reduce the material that contributes to blocked pores, although they do not suit every skin type.

Closed comedones are small, skin-coloured or pale bumps formed when oil and dead skin cells block a pore beneath a closed surface. They are a feature of comedonal acne. Milia can look similar but are small keratin-filled cysts, so a treatment chosen for acne may not clear them.

AHAs address surface cell buildup rather than all drivers of acne. A topical retinoid acts differently by helping normalise cell turnover inside the pore, and a clinician may favour it when comedones are widespread or persistent.

Choose one leave-on AHA product with a clearly labelled ingredient list. Patch test it, begin on occasional evenings, and increase only if the skin remains comfortable. Apply a bland moisturiser and use broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day because exfoliated skin can be more sun-sensitive.

Avoid introducing scrubs, peels, or several strong acne products at the same time. Do not pick or squeeze the bumps. If you already use a retinoid, benzoyl peroxide, or another exfoliating acid, ask a pharmacist or dermatologist how to separate products and reduce irritation.

Stop the product and seek advice if you develop marked burning, swelling, blistering, or a spreading rash. Arrange a dermatology review when bumps become painful or inflamed, leave dark marks or scars, or remain despite a consistent gentle routine.

A clinician can distinguish whiteheads from milia and other bumps, review products that may clog pores, and discuss prescription treatment or carefully performed extraction where appropriate.

Ask whether the bumps are closed comedones or milia, which active ingredient fits your skin sensitivity, and whether your current cleanser, moisturiser, makeup, or hair products could be contributing. Mention eczema, rosacea, pregnancy, breastfeeding, and every prescription or cosmetic active you use.