AHA and BHA chemical peels explained

Alpha hydroxy acids work mainly at the skin surface, while oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid can enter oily pores. A peel may contain one acid or a combination, and professional assessment is valuable when treating pigmentation, active acne or sensitive skin.

Common AHAs include glycolic and lactic acid. They are often selected for rough texture, dullness and uneven surface pigmentation. Salicylic acid is the usual BHA in skincare and peels; its affinity for oil makes it useful when clogged pores and comedones are central concerns.

The acid name does not tell you the full strength of a peel. Concentration, acidity, number of layers, contact time and whether the product is neutralised all influence penetration. Combining acids can increase irritation, so stacking a home peel with scrubs, retinoids or other acids is unsafe without a tailored plan.

Tell the clinician about eczema, rosacea, allergies, cold sores, recent sunburn, a history of pigment change, pregnancy, medicines and current skincare. Do not apply a peel to broken, infected or freshly waxed skin. Follow specific instructions about pausing retinoids, exfoliants, bleaching products or hair-removal treatments.

After a peel, cleanse gently, moisturise and use broad-spectrum sun protection. Let flaking skin detach naturally rather than pulling it away. Avoid extra acids, scrubs, retinoids, fragranced products and heat exposure until stinging and visible peeling have stopped. Darker skin can develop post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after excessive irritation, making careful peel selection and sun protection particularly relevant.

Rinse off a home product according to its directions if burning becomes intense, and do not try to neutralise it with another chemical. Obtain prompt medical advice for severe or worsening pain, marked swelling, widespread blistering, grey or black skin, discharge, fever or redness that continues to spread.

Contact a clinician if a cold sore appears or if darkening, lightening, persistent sensitivity or scarring develops after healing. Eye exposure requires immediate prolonged rinsing with clean lukewarm water and urgent guidance from a medical service or poison-information service.

Ask which acid and formulation suit the diagnosis, how the clinician will control peel depth, and what visible recovery to expect. Clarify how your current acne or pigmentation treatment should be adjusted, whether antiviral prevention is relevant to your cold-sore history, and what signs should trigger an immediate call.